Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Goats do Roam 2007
Served with: Turkey dinner, sweet and white potatoes, stuffing with cranberries, grean beans, and gravy
Colour and visuals: Intense deep dark red to burgundy, multiple fast-running thin legs
Nose: Evergreens and cedar, spice, white pepper
Taste: Plush with dark fruit, mixed berry jam, blueberry
Palate: Perceptive sweetness that developed intensity after every taste, medium to heavy in weight, just a hint of fine tannin, no perceptive hard- or mid-palate mouthfeel
Finish: Woody, tart (a tad too much), a little hot from the alcohol (14% by volume) which seemed unbalanced, jamminess lasts for 30 seconds
Overall impression: Approachable. Benefitted greatly when paired with all the food. Better to serve slightly more chilled to dampen the alcoholic nature. The jaminess is a positive quality. Although the composition of the blend resembles southern Rhône style (40% shiraz, 18% pinotage, 17% cinsault, with carignan, mourvèdre, and gamay noir to add complexity), this wine is more characteristic of an Australian shiraz that is fruit forward, rather than a Rhône style syrah blend which is spicy and earthy.
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Risotto - the very versatile rice dish
- A wooden spoon (wooden spoons are used because they are gentle on the rice grains)
- Pots for cooking the rice and other saucepans for cooking veggies, meats and other ingredients
- Patience and strong arms because you'll be working the rice for at least 30 minutes
- Arborio rice (Italian)
- Broth (any kind to suit your taste, be it vegetable, beef, fish, chicken etc.) either purchased as bullion cubes or ready-made, or made from the drippings and liquids of the ingredients you use. For example, seafood like shellfish contain plenty of liquid. You should make/collect about one litre of broth for two cups of rice.
- Finely diced garlic (amount depends on your taste) and a half a white onion
- Unsalted butter (a quarter pound or more as needed)
- White wine (optional)
- Cheeses (finely grated, hard to semi-hard; I like parmigiano reggiano)
- Any of the following ingredients you can use to make your own creation. Be they mushrooms, sundried tomato, seafood, bacon, etc.
For two cups of rice to serve four people as a main course.
- Fully melt a quarter to one-third of a cup of butter in the pot on low heat.
- Add the garlic and onions. Stir the onions until they become translucent.
- Add the rice slowly as you coat it in the melted butter. The rice must be completely permeated with butter to begin the next step, so add more if you require.
- Add half cup of wine if you prefer and stir gently until the wine absorbs and evaporates.
- Add broth, one half cupful at a time. Keep stirring on a medium heat until the broth is absorbed, then add then next portion of broth.
- As you cook the rest of your ingredients, add the liquid runoffs in small portions and keep stirring.
7. Add your other ingredients in the final steps of cooking the risotto.
8. Finish off by adding the grated cheeses to suit your taste. This will also help to thicken the risotto.
9. Add garnishes. Rosemary sprigs, basil leaves, shells, etc. This is your decoration. Make it unique!
Wine to serve and enjoy with risotto
A good guideline, as always, is to match the weight of the food with the weight of the wine. In addition, try to match the nuances in the food, with those in your wine of choice. For example,
If you have chosen ingredients that have earthy characteristics such as mushrooms, parmesan cheese, and beef, a medium bodied red like Pinot Noir, (from Burgundy, California, Washington, or even Niagara) will be very satisfying because Pinot Noir has a lot of the same 'earthen' nose and flavours. For an Italian wine, try Chianti as it is medium bodied and earthy in nature.
Have fun trying different combinations of ingredients for your risotto creations and pairing them with multiple red and white wines. Notice how wine can often change its presentation on your palate after a bite of food. Conversely, take note of how wine can change the complexity of the taste of your dish.
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Vintourism Introduction
I’ve travelled to a decent amount of key wine countries around the world for a relatively short span of time. Italy, Chile, Argentina, Australia, and of course, my local area situated in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. As you can see, I still have a lot more places to go. I generally stay for a week or more, taking in the sights through wine and culinary delights. Sometimes through coach tours, staying on a farm in a villa, and even by bicycling. I leave with many fond memories and when I go back again, it will feel more like I’m visting one of my homes away from home.
I therefore named this section ‘Vintourism’ – Visiting a place where one experiences the local culture through its wine and culinary arts. Here, I will write about these exciting journeys, introduce some of the fantastic friends I’ve made along the way, and reminisce on the great food and drink that tied everything together.
Visit to Niagara College Restaurant and Teaching Winery
If you are from Toronto, as I am, and don’t want to travel too far to taste some great wine and food, you are in luck. Niagara-on-the-Lake is just a short 90-minute drive from Hogtown, down the QEW. At the gateway of this quaint winemaking, and historical town is the Niagara College Glendale Campus. This is the home of their culinary arts and winemaking & viticulture program. December is a great time to go to Niagara as things are relatively more quiet compared to the bustling summer season.
I had never been to the College but had to try something new. So after the long ride, I arrived at the restaurant for lunch. Culinary and hospitality management students run the establishment, from decoration, assembling the menu, creating the dishes, and serving the tables. In addition, the wine list is comprised of the top examples from the winemaking program.
Strangely enough, I entered an empty restaurant and thought they were closed. I soon learned that this particular saturday lunchtime was dead for business. I was the second table of the day to be seated – and also the last table for the lunch service. Luckily for me, I had an all-you-can-eat buffet spread of gourmet food! No lineups, great service (of course) and no rushing to finish.
To just breeze over the top of the list of items, there was a mixed greens start to the meal, followed by the charcuterie assortment (the prosciutto and bresaola was delicious) and artisinal cheeses. The carvery station featured moist turkey and ham with a hearty gravy and stuffing. Usually I expect these to be too salty, but the dressings of stuffing and gravy were balanced very well. And then there was the roundabout dessert table that encircled the Christmas tree and decorations at the centre of the room. If you have anything remotely resembling a sweet tooth, you’ll find something tasty. I liked the rice pudding best as it had a balance of sweet and spice.
Of course, I can’t forget the wine list. There’s a small assortment but a good selection. The wine is exclusively Canadian with most of the offerings from the Niagara-on-the-lake and Vineland-Beamsville bench area, which is near St. Catherines. The ‘house list’ is comprised of a dozen wines. Most range in price from $28-42, while the finest examples of the College on the list are the Dean’s List Chardonnay ($59) and Dean’s List Pinot Noir ($72). The nice part about winery restaurants is that there is no ‘middle-man’. You buy direct from the winemaker and therefore pay less for the bottle of wine. However, the wine was still marked up a bit compared to the prices in the store (and more than just a simple corkage fee mark-up).
Being a fan of peppery reds, I enjoyed a glass of the Cabernet Franc 2006. Medium-bodied, white pepper and bell pepper on the nose, a firm dry taste of cinnamon spice, earth and cocoa. The finish was enjoyable. Try breathing out slowly after ingesting the wine and take note of what you taste. I sensed dried fruits and plum. It’s a nice all-rounder that stood up to all the dishes I tried at the buffet. However, it’s probably not the wine to pick for desserts as the sweetness of the treats overpowered the wine. So move on to a sweeter dessert wine instead.
Overall, the lunch was a great prelude to the Christmas season. The price of the meal, $30 plus $8 for a glass of wine (excluding tax and gratuity) is slightly on the high side, but will be well worth it if you have time to enjoy the atmosphere and plenty of great tasting food.
The Teaching Winery store was about a two minute walk from the restaurant, in a separate building. Practically brand new, it had a ‘Royal grand opening visit’ by Prince Charles in November, 2009. The place was very pretty indeed. The tasting bar was at the centre, and all around the circular room were windows that showcased the vineyards in their post-harvest slumber – peaceful beauty.
Some of the white wines of note were the Gewürtztraminer 2007 (noticeable lychee and tropical fruit; the perceived sweetness would be a nice pair for mildly spicy dishes), the Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, 2006 (very bold butter and vanilla; a heavyweight wine suitable for oily fish such as salmon and definitely pairs well with chicken), the Dean’s List Chardonnay (for comparison, it is more delicate in nature than the barrel fermented and one would argue it is more balanced), and the very zesty, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc (think herb garden and fresh cut grass; a real palate cleanser for the start of a meal).
The one red wine I did try was the Baco Noir, purely for interest sake. This hybrid grape, grown in France and now a main hybrid variety in Ontario, is known for being very dark and inky purple. It has very high acidity for red wines and this example from the College was no exception. It could have been the most acidic I’ve tried. It was one I didn’t really like too much (If I had to criticise). Definitely something to have with food as it is not too palatable on its own as a sipper.
The service was very friendly and the staff (also partly run by the students of the College) were knowledgeable, but don’t expect to be served by sommeliers as they are still learning. I know I’ll still be returning the next time I’m in town.
Featured soon, will be the next leg of the trip, to the Historic District. Stay tuned!
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Setting up your juice for fermentation, and great tips
1. You will need
- A food grade plastic bucket (at least 30 L capacity) and lid
- A long plastic spoon or paddle, to stir with
- 5 gram yeast sachet (provided in most kits but most can be bought for a dollar if not provided)
- Sanitizer (potassium metabisulfite powder, or food-grade sanitizing powder product such as chloroclean)
- Hydrometer and test jar (see Fig. 1)
- A wine thief
- Measuring cups
- Pectic enzyme
- Yeast nutrient broth powder
- Plastic or glass gallon jug
2. “Cleanliness is next to Godliness”. That’s right, sanitize everything! Organisms of all kinds, including bacteria, moulds, and wild yeast are everywhere and like to coat your equipment in their mucky essence. They would just love to have a bite of your expensive, sugary juice. They will eat their fair share and give you nothing back but stinky odours and most likely turn your batch into vinegar or worse. Get rid of them by washing and soaking your equipment with the sulfite powder (a tablespoon per liter of cool water will be strong enough, a teaspoon of citric acid helps too – try not to inhale the vapours) or alternative product (follow the manufacturer’s directions for dissolving in water).
From a microbiologist's perspective, like my own, sulfites greatly inhibit the growth of these critters so that they won’t be a harm. Rinse everything in copious amounts of clean water and do not let your clean equipment touch uncleanly surfaces. Wash your hands as well, with hand soap.
NOTE: It is best not to use dish soap as it leaves a filmy residue that will make your wine taste just like the detergent you use (“Hey there, care to try my “Sapon Sauvignon 2006?” – yuck!). Do not use liquid bleach (e.g. Javex) as it too can leave a film and impart off flavours (or even poison your guests!). I often use a product called Chloroclean for big washes. It is a chlorinated product that is safe for food processing. It rinses clean from plastic and glass surfaces. Again, rinse everything well.
3. Pour the juice into the large plastic bucket (easy enough). If you bought a kit that is a concentrate, reconstitute the mix by stirring in the rest of the volume using lukewarm water. Example, if you have a kit that has a concentrate volume of 15 L and the kit makes 23 L, add 8 L of water).
4. Rehydrate the yeast culture: In 50 mL (1/4 cup) of warm water (Ideally, 40°C/104°F. I don’t think you would like to wake up from your slumber to an ice cold shower, would you?). Let the yeast sit for 15 minutes and then gently stir.
OPTIONAL: The yeast nutrients mentioned in the list refer to a mixture of carbohydrates, fats, and proteins that supplement yeast growth. Dissolve in warm water according to the manufacturer’s instructions and then add the yeast for rehydration.
5. Wait until the juice is approximately the same temperature, as the yeast solution (i.e. within 10-15 degrees of each other; the juice will warm up in the room while the yeast solution will begin to cool down).6. Pitch the yeast into the juice and stir very well.
*ProStar Tips*:
Remember your gallon jug? Place the rehydrated yeast slurry into the jug and then stir in 2 cups of juice every 30 minutes until the jug is full (or until you get bored) and then stir the mix into the rest of the juice. What this does is help the yeast to “acclimatize” to the new “juicy” environment. They will get used to the temperature changes, acidity, and begin to digest the juices ingredients (especially sugars). Acclimatization gives the yeast population a head-start and gives excellent, no-hassle, results until the fermentation ends. Picture it like you are ‘training’ the yeast cells to do their job exceptionally well before you give them a large task. Would your boss give you responsibility over the company’s biggest jobs right away? Not likely, but they would be glad to have you ‘work your way up’ first. This mixture is called the “yeast starter” and is a technique used by even the most famous winemakers.
Pectic enzyme? This enzyme breaks down pectin (a complex of sugars that are found in jams and jellies). Pectin causes juices (and newly made wines) to haze up and prevent clearing.
7. Remove some juice with your wine thief and place into your hydrometer and test jar. Float the hydrometer in the jar and read off the point at which the surface of the juice meets the meter. Record this value because we’ll use it later! Generally it should read between 1.100 and 1.070.
Believe it or not, you have just started your first ‘primary fermentation’. It is best practice to keep monitoring the specific gravity of your fermenting juice daily. In about 5-7 days the S.G. should reach close to 1.010.
Fig. 1 A hydrometer. See the gradations and numbers along the stem. Simply drop the hydrometer in the juice and it will float or sink depending on how dense the juice is. More sugar causes the meter to rise higher. As the juice ferments, it will sink into the red zone shown here which corresponds to a specific gravity of 1.000.
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Buying juice and kits to make wine
Oh boy! Hang on a second! Don’t you start with buying the grapes first? The short answer is, maybe. You see, years ago, the situation was generally like so: Around mid-September a farmer or grape importer/purveyor would simply set up shop in a market for just a few weeks (the importers were like members of my family who would bring crate loads of grapes, delivered by train, to Toronto from California). People would come from all over the neighbourhood to buy cases of grapes of whatever variety they fancied. Generally, the grapes were brought home already crushed by the purveyor’s crusher and placed into pails, skins, stems, seeds and all. A few days would pass and the juice-skin mixture, called the ‘must’, would start to ferment. Then, the whole mish-mash was pressed and all the juice would flow out into a collecting pail for the rest of the fermentation process.
The process was messy, very large scale (it often took 85 pounds of grapes to make two cases, 24, bottles of wine), and generally done outside. In addition, people that bought juice from starting with crushed grapes had to put in the extra effort to extract colour, especially for red wine (more on this later). Over the years, the consumer has gained a few more options to make the process simpler and more friendly so that first-time winemakers can join in the fun.
Now, you can buy the juice from the purveyor already processed. Crushing and pressing is done for you, the colour is all extracted, the yeast is already fermenting away because it lives on the skins of the grapes, and sometimes, a laboratory technician will “balance” the juice to the appropriate acidity and sugar content to make great wine. This is known as a “fresh juice format” because the yeast has already started working to convert sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide (the source of the characteristic “fizz” you see). This is a great format for those that don’t want to deal with the mess of pressing grapes. However, I wouldn’t recommend it for a beginner because the juice has to be worked with right away and hence, won’t wait for you to take a workday off so you can tend to it. Generally, the juice is stored in large fridges to slow the fermentation process until the customer is ready to buy it. There are also even simpler options for the beginner.
If you want the juice to sit around ‘silent’ until you are ready. The “pasteurized” or “wine-kit” format is the right one for you. In this format, the juice is made just like the above fresh format but is flash heated. This “pasteurization” is intended to kill (or at least stun) the yeast living inside the juice. These formats generally come with all the instructions you need to make good wine and come with all the ingredients you may want along the way. Most important of these ingredients is the yeast culture that you’ll add back into the juice when you are ready. Because they aren’t actually fermenting when you purchase them, these juices can be kept at room temperature and can be made into wine at any time of year.
Even more exciting is the fact that you can buy pasteurized juices from grapes sourced internationally.
After my first (and botched) attempt at making wine from crushed grapes, I swallowed my pride and opted for a wine kit. It’s the best place to start and you’ll almost never run into any rude surprises along the way.
What about the price? It’s the same concept as buying anything at all – you pay more for convenience. Pasteurized formats cost anywhere between $60-$150 (yielding 30 bottles of wine, and higher quality generally commands a higher price), while pressed juice ranges from $35-90 (also making 30 bottles) and the price is just a tad cheaper when buying a corresponding amount of grapes.
The entire process to make wine from a kit lasts 4-8 weeks, depending on its quality. In addition, these wines generally benefit from aging, from a month to a year, before enjoying them.
Fall 2008: I enlisted the help of my best friend Nader (left) for this batch. Over 250 litres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc juice and 100 pounds of skins went into the drums behind us.
Here we are, you’ve learned about your tastes in wine, decided on a format you wish to purchase and now the work (fun) begins!Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Choosing the right wine for you: White wines
Bold, buttery, and cooked fruit (serve slightly chilled 15°C/59°F)
Chardonnay (California and Australia) — Probably the most recognized grape. Just look for the ones aged in oak or are ‘barrel fermented’. You’ll notice the cooked peach, pear, and apple.
Tart or fresh citrus character (these wines are palate cleansers and are best for cutting the fat in a meal, even when fried, making the first bite taste as good as the next; serve chilled, around 8-12°C/46-53°F)
Riesling (Germany and Ontario) — The King of the white grapes. I’ve had Rieslings that are very pinapple, or lemon, and even smell floral. My choice for pairing with fish and chips. German rieslings are typically lower in alcohol (under 10% by volume) and are sweeter. Ontario rieslings are generally off-dry and are (11-12% alc/vol).
Unoaked Chardonnay (Ontario; Chablis, France) — Many may notice how much Chardonnay has a crisp green apple character when not kept in oak. The Chablis region of Burgundy, in France, has a soil rich in limestone. Thus, the wine from here has a wonderful minerally property.
Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand) — Enjoy the fresh cut grassiness and herbaceousness of this spectacular white wine. It’s crispy acidity is great for a pre-dinner apertif.
Pinot Grigio (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy) — This northeastern Italian province makes a very fragrant white that is similar in nature to Sauvignon Blanc. However, from talking to my colleagues and friends at wine seminars, I gather that Pinot Grigio is more approachable because it is more balanced, being less ‘grassy’ in scent.
Interested in red wine, too? Have a look at my page on reds.
http://kevindonato.blogspot.com/2009/12/choosing-right-wine-for-you-red-wines.html
Choosing the right wine for you: Red wines
Enjoy their earthiness, cedar, subtle tobacco
Barolo (Piedmonte, Italy) — Made from the Nebbiolo variety.
Amarone (Veneto, Italy) — A powerful form of Valpolicella which is made from partially dried grapes to concentrate the flavours; they have a level of residual sweetness.
Cabernet Sauvignon (Chile) — Chile’s most planted grape. It’s a great all-rounder with a balance of earthy and fruit. Some fantastic deals to be had in store.
Can range from the earthy to the deep fruity
Bordeaux (France) — Varied from the Cabernet-dominated to the Merlot dominated. I find
the Merlot offerings to be more plush with dark fruits like plum, black cherry, and currant.
Compare these two for fun! Pretty much the same sort of grape, but the difference in climate and winemaking practices make a huge difference.
Shiraz (Southern Australia) — The Aussies love to make blockbuster Shiraz that is very fruit forward to the point of being ‘jammy’. You’ll appreciate the residual sweetness.
Syrah (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) — These Southern French offerings (and usually blends with other grapes such including Grenache and Carignan) are a bargain! They will be more ‘peppery’ rather than fruity, and drier rather than sweet.
Medium and Lighter Reds (Very versatile, range from the easy-sipping type, to the complex; serve these slightly cooler than heavier reds to appreciate their subtleties, around 15°C/59°F)
Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) — Made from the Gamay grape. The lightest are ‘Beaujolais Nouveau’, and released every year on the third Thursday of November. Taking a mere two months from grapevine-to-bottle, they are so new you may even taste some slight effervesence left over from the recently finished fermentation! Beaujolais is actually a complex medium bodied red that can sometimes command very high prices – but can be worth your while.
Pinot Noir (Burgundy, France; British Columbia and Ontario, Canada) — Seen the movie Sideways? I totally resonate with the character played by Paul Giamatti that poured his heart out for this grape. I love its light earthiness. I especially love to break famous wine myths in my wine appreciation seminars, like that you can’t eat red wine with fish, and serve this with salmon or grilled tilapia. Pinot Noir is fantastic with mushroom dishes. Another country that is a still a lesser known rising star for this grape is Canada so check them out, too.
Zinfandel (California) — Bursting with dark ripe fruit. This is Californian flagship wine grape by far. It even comes as a great summer sipper as a blush Rosé which is of medium sweetness.
Interested in white wine, too? Have a look at my page on whites.
http://kevindonato.blogspot.com/2009/12/choosing-right-wine-for-you-white-wines.html
Choosing the right wine for you
Piled up to the roof with names like Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc,Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Riesling, Chardonnay or Chablis, Gamay or Beaujolais, Shiraz or Syrah, Barolo or Bordeaux or Burgundy, you start feeling dizzy. What do they all mean? Even more important, which is for your taste?Below is a quick synopsis of grape and wine naming.Firstly, those wines that are of the "Old World" come from Europe, including France, Italy, and Spain. These countries name their wines after the region they were made, and most are made from combinations of grapes (although it is becoming more favourable from a marketing standpoint to label the bottles with the type of grape rather than the region – for approachability). For example, Bordeaux is a region in France that blends primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (and a few more) together. Valpolicella is a varietal in Veneto, Italy and primarily uses three local varietals, namely Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara.
Most wines from the "New World" (North America and everywhere else) are named directly after the type of grape used.
September 2009, Caroline Cellars, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada. Enjoying a nice glass of their Cabernet Sauvignon, and a cheese assortment, on the sunlight patio.
Below is a short take on some wines to match with "mood and food” and a few regions I’ve had particularly good experiences with. Being so early in this blog, I’m going to merely skim from the top of all there is to offer. The bottom line: To develop a sense of what you like, you have to really dive in and try wines you’ve never had before, with food and without. Take notes! When you find a nice bottle, keep a note or keep the bottle so you will remember what to get next time.