Pork and vegetable noodle soup with Pinot Noir

This combination is the perfect pairing

for a stormy, autumn night in.

Ingredients:

·         Pork shank and neck

·         Large carrots, turnip, gobo root, dried shiitake mushroom

·         Candied dates

·         Salt to taste

·         Yan chun style noodles

·         Pairing: 

22   2007 ‘View’ Pinot Noir, Maleta Estate Winery, VQA Niagara Peninsula

o   Vibrant medium ruby in colour

o   Nose of moss, bark, dried fallen leaves, hint of red berry fruit (raspberry)

o   Dry, with medium acidity, very soft tannins, and light to medium-body; tangy raspberry, limestone minerality, earthen nuances

1.       Blanche and rinse meat

2.       Add vegetables, gobo, mushrooms and dates

3.       Slowcooker on low for 8hrs

4.       Add noodles in the hot soup to cook for 5-10 min

The key with all pairings is to match the weight of the food to the weight of the wine.  The dish has no creams, added salts or sugars, making a light broth to pair with this lighter bodied wine.  Next, the ingredients in the dish are mirrored in the wine.  This pinot noir has an earthen nose of moss, bark, dried fallen leaves which match the root vegetables, and especially the mushrooms.  The vibrant acidity and delicately soft tannins both cleanse the palate and suit the mild protein of the pork.  The touch of sweetness imparted by the dates pairs nicely with the tangy raspberry flavour of the wine.  Finally the pinot’s subtle minerality complements the pork bone that constitutes the broth.

'Secondary' fermentation?

A famous quote from Kurt Vonnegut from his book Breakfast of Champions sums up the process:

Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast.  They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne.

This scenario actually applies to the end of the fermentation process for making any kind of wine, or any alcoholic beverage for that matter.

The duration of primary fermentation depends on temperature, growth of the yeast culture, and obviously, the sugar content of the must. In general, the primary fermentation takes about a week. At the end, only residual sugar will be left in the wine since the majority was converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide. 

Visibly speaking, the amount of ‘bubbling’ or ‘fizzing’ happening in the fermentation vessel becomes minimal compared to the vigorous primary fermentation stage. The yeast are slowing down, or dying off, as they succumb to the alcohol or lack of nutritive resources. 

Oxygen was essential for yeast propagation during the primary fermentation. However, now that the yeast cells have converted all the sugar, they no longer produce the carbon dioxide blanket to prevent oxidation of the newly made alcohol. Unfortunately, at this marginal potency of alcohol (generally about 10 to 15% for wine) the wine could spoil as the alcohol turns to acetic acid (vinegar).  I will have more on the science (and microbiology – my favourite topic!) of this process in future post.

In some instances, the fermentation finale as it occurs in the air-locked vessel as described in the last winemaking post is referred to as a secondary fermentation.  The purpose of the air-lock is to allow carbon dioxide to escape and to prevent the entry of outside air which is rich in oxygen.

The wine is siphoned off the sludge, known as ‘lees’, that settles to the bottom of the fermentation vessel.  Called 'racking'.  If at all possible, it is best practice to top up your vessel to minimize the level of airspace or ('headspace').  Using a similar wine to the kind you are making ensures that you will not dilute your creation.


The wine generally sits for at least a month at a cooler temperature to allow the vast majority of fine particulate matter to settle out. However, even after this length of time, the wine may still appear cloudy. Additional steps are taken to polish the wine to clarity with organic or inorganic agents that accelerate precipitation.  This process is known as 'fining' and will be the subject of the next winemaking post.

Ciao Winebar and Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Rasteau Chapoutier 2007

"Ciao!" It is a versatile Italian salutation, meaning either "hi" or "bye", depending on the context.  But there is no confusion of meaning when you are referring to Yorkville's latest nightlife restaurant addition.  At Ciao Winebar (133 Yorkville Ave, Toronto) the language is unmistakably speaking of wine and great food.  This gem from Liberty Entertainment Group has friendly, unpretentious service and a chic 'new world meets old world' decor (with large amphorae vessels hanging from the ceiling).

The menu is affordable, rustic Italian, and delicious.  The large portions entice you to share with your friends, family, or date.  Try the grilled whole calamari ($13), perfectly cooked, tender in your mouth and never rubbery, was served with a generous portion of salad greens and spritz of lemon to help cleanse the palate.  The cappellini 'Puttanesca' (with tomato, capers, anchiovies, and olives; $12) was as wholesome as the pizza 'Diavola' (with spicy Calabrese salami, mozzarella and roasted red peppers; $14).  The ingredients were very fresh, the crust was thin, slightly crisp, and tasted like the wood-fired Neopolitan pizzas back in Italy. 

The wine list can be a bit daunting for someone that is new to ordering bottles in restaurants.  There are over 200 bottles to choose, with representatives from the big three (Spain, Italy, and France, and grouped by region) as well as Canada, USA, Australia, and New Zealand.  About half of them have a 'premium' level of exclusivity, with their prices commanding in excess of $100.  However, there still are relative bargains to be had. 

The Côtes du Rhône-Villages from M. Chaptoutier ('Rasteau') 2007 ($45) is a great southern French wine with Grenache leading the blend.  Deep ruby in colour, this wine has a distinct, soft white pepper on the nose and palate with fine tannins that tingle the lips.  The pasta and pizza help to bring out the dark fruit character.  Even though the wine is a heavyweight in the alcohol department, (14% by vol), one really does not taste the burning 'heat' because the wine is beautifully balanced. 

The dessert menu beckons you to cap off a great meal (only this time, you may not even want to share!).  With delights ($6-8) like the giant bacio bombe (a scaled-up sized version of the Italian-inspired hazelnut filled chocolates with the romantic messages enclosed in the wrapping) and mini-sized Sicilian cannoli (with mascarpone cheese and candied orange filling) it is hard to say no. 

There are so many options to choose from on the food and wine menus, you can add variety to your gastronomic experience.  Feel free to ask the opinions of your server, as a nicely paried wine is a must for these meals, both to digest...and for pure pleasure, of course.

The bacio bombe (above, was exploding with chocolatey richness)

Primary fermentation

So by now, the yeast are well on their way to turning the grape slurry into wine. As they do so, the temperature of the fermentation vessel will begin to rise as the chemical reactions during the fermentation process give off generous amounts of heat.  As for my 120 L of must, featured below, it started at a chilly 15°C and rose to 25°C in a couple days.

In addition, you will begin to see the characteristic ‘fizz’ associated with the release of carbon dioxide.  The pleasant aroma of fruity grape and wine will fill the air.  Your sense of smell is key here.  As the yeast ferment the juice, they require other nutrients and oxygen.  You won’t have to worry too much if you bought juice from a supplier because most of the balancing of nutrients is done for you.  When working from scratch with your own grapes monitoring acidity, dissolved oxygen, nitrogen levels and a whole other suite of factors play a role (so it's not just up to the sugars) to make sure the yeast get the their dietary requirements.  Although the yeast can’t speak, they certainly let you know when they are stressed.  When nutrient starved, they will begin to use other sources of energy and excrete unpleasant smelling byproducts.  For instance if you smell, something resembling ‘rotten eggs’ it is critical that yeast nutrients be added (more on yeast and nutrients later).

When working with grape skins in your must, the floating cap should be punched down into the juice multiple times per day.  'Cap management' prevents the grape skins from drying out and rotting.  In addition, mixing the cap into the liquid extracts tannin and pigments to build body, depth of colour and flavour.  Tannins are astringent tasting chemical compounds found in grape skins, stems and seeds (other fruits that have high tannic content are pomegranates and blueberries – and don’t forget tea, it has lots of tannins too). They are a chemical class called ‘polyphenols’ and have been purported to act as antioxidants.  Tannins are one of many factors that contribute to the ability of a wine to age over prolonged periods.  We’ll revisit tannins in a section regarding how to evaluate and taste wine. 

A grapeskin cap forms over the surface of the must.  It must be 'punched' down a few times per day.  When making white wine, the skins are generally pressed from the must immediately after crushing the grapes.

Each day, a sample of wine from the primary fermentor is removed, measured for its specific gravity, and this value is recorded. Over the course of about a week the specific gravity will approach 1.000 kilograms/liter.  This is the density of water and indicates that almost all the sugar has been converted to alcohol.  Checking the specific gravity each day allows you to monitor the fermentation rate which helps to predict when it will finish. 

With the yeast exhausting the food supply (sugar) and raising the alcohol, a very inhospitable environment is made.  Most of the yeast die off and sink to the bottom of the vessel.  The amount of ‘fizz’ you see begins to diminish and the fermentation is almost complete.  It is now time for the wine to be pressed from its skins (if present) and siphoned off the sludge at the bottom of the vessel.  You are preparing the wine for ‘secondary fermentation’ processes.

Cesari Amarone 2004

Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004

Veneto region, Italy; 14% alc by vol; opened December 31, 2009

Cellared for approximately one year and decanted two hours before serving at room temperature.

Served with: homemade pizza (whole wheat crust, tomato/basil/garlic sauce, prosciutto, dried fig, arugula, feta cheese, cremini mushrooms, green pepper, sundried tomato).

Colour/visuals: Warm, deeply opaque red with a hint of brick and plenty fine legs continuously run down the glass.

Nose: The leather is immediately noticed and followed by cigar box, a characteristic raisin, and a hint of pleasing moss.

Taste: Great mid palate sensation, dry, full bodied in weight.  The leather continues along with black cherry.

Finish: Lasts for one minute and longer. Firm acidity is in balance with the alcohol and it never felt ‘hot’.  The black cherry and the earth notes linger through.

This wonderfully complex wine was a joy to drink.  It will clearly improve into 2012.  Importantly, it is fully capable of pairing and complementing the variety of ingredients served.

Tourism at home, part II: Niagara-on-the-Lake historical district

After lunch at Niagara College, a walk along Queen street in the historic district is wonderful to help digest.  There are countless articles on the history of the area but I'll hightlight some of the key sights and give you a more personal account.

In the winter time (after November 1st) you can find free parking just about everywhere.  In the summer, free parking is difficult to spot, so try the streets around the residential neighbourhood to the south of Queen st.  Otherwise, parking along Queen st. or on the north side streets comes at a relatively low cost.

It's nice to start your stroll at the west end of Queen, nearby the Niagara-on-the-Lake Golf Club, and heading eastward towards the obelisk (below).
 

Stop in at Victoria Gallery and Teas (108 Queen st.) for a specialty tea, or take some home, either in bags or as looseleaf.  There are some very interesting, uniquely Canadian infusions such as icewine and maple syrup.  Coffee lovers are not left out in the cold either as there are plenty of classics and unique roasts to enjoy.

For the sweet tooth, Maple Leaf Fudge (114 Queen st.) offers a suite of exceptional bricks of creamy fudge and chocolate confections.  There are bulk candies for sale, maple syrup, and a collections of Ty-branded stuffed animal figures for all you collectors out there. 

Continuing down the street are more shops featuring clothing and kitchenwares.  Unfortunately, very few of these stores withstand the test of the economy and are replaced on an almost annual basis.  Some resist the revolving door because they are so unique, and their contents really draw the visitors.  Of note is the clothing, gift and jewlery store, Irish Design (75 Queen st.), which also has a nice patio and tea room.  At Just Christmas (34 Queen st.), the spirit of the season lasts all year and is chock full of nice ornaments for decorating.  The staff will paint your name on glass Christmas balls for a personal touch to your tree.  Greaves Jams and Marmalades Ltd. (55 Queen st.) have pretty much any flavour of delicious jam or jelly, along with chutney, salsa, honey and gourmet sauce you like for your kitchen pantry.  Your nose, and temptation, may get the better of you if you visit the Niagara Home Bakery (66 Queen st.), be sure to save some of those yummy baked goods and pies for your friends too.  Have a laugh at the quirky, cow related puns on clothing and other items at Cows (44 Queen st.).  Other stores that have been around for more than just a few seasons include some recognizable franchises including Crabtree & Evelyn, Ten-thousand Villages, the LCBO, and Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory.  

Storefronts on the north side of Queen st.  A new wine and tapas restaurant,

Cork's (left), Crabtree and Evelyn (second from left), and the Niagara Apothecary (right)

There are plenty of places to eat.  If I could just mention a few where I have had great experiences, or are curiously worth visiting, they would be the expensive but excellent Escabeche restaurant (at the Prince of Wales Hotel [right], 6 Picton, st.).  Their wine list includes plenty of fantastic Canadian examples that you may not be familiar with, because they aren't found in the LCBO.  The sommelier has been there for many years.  He is very friendly, knowledgeable, and never scoffs at you if all you want to order is a simple glass to try, or perhaps no wine at all.  The more reasonably priced yet very tasty Bistro Six-One (61 Queen st.) has a relaxed atmosphere and is warmly decorated -- a great place for brunch.  Unfortunately, some of the others have been hit-or-miss on the quality of their food (The Shaw Cafe, although very pretty both inside and out, is too busy, too overpriced, and has not consitently delivered on quality -- and I've given them three chances).

Other than stores and restaurants, be sure to visit the Niagara Apothecary (free; northwest corner of Queen and King; open during the spring and summer only) for a look into our pharmaceutical past.  Tricia Romance's The Romance Collection Gallery (177 King st) is a beautiful house with great gardens and wonderful artwork. 

Photo opportunites can be had along the lakefront at the foot of King street.  Visit the gazebo (right), and the beach walkway of the Queen's Royal Park all the way back to your startpoint near the golfcourse.  While you stroll, take in the sights of the beautiful boats afloat in lake Ontario, the old Fort Niagara (below; across the river is Youngstown, New York, in the United States), a major fort during the war of 1812, and on a clear day, if you look northwest, you can see the CN tower back in Toronto.

After a long day of exploring, and enjoying some of Ontario's fantastic wine and culinary delights.  It would be a great treat to cap off the evening and stay the night.  You can somewhat blow the budget, splurge, but be served like royalty, at the Prince of Wales Hotel (with breakfast packages that average $250 per night, for a traditional King size bed, prices fluctuate due to seasonality).  However, there is a whole other industry that is truly booming.  The Bed & Breakfast option (with well over 300 unique establishments) is affordable, hospitable and a great way to experience Niagara's history first hand. 

More to come...