'Secondary' fermentation?

A famous quote from Kurt Vonnegut from his book Breakfast of Champions sums up the process:

Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast.  They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne.

This scenario actually applies to the end of the fermentation process for making any kind of wine, or any alcoholic beverage for that matter.

The duration of primary fermentation depends on temperature, growth of the yeast culture, and obviously, the sugar content of the must. In general, the primary fermentation takes about a week. At the end, only residual sugar will be left in the wine since the majority was converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide. 

Visibly speaking, the amount of ‘bubbling’ or ‘fizzing’ happening in the fermentation vessel becomes minimal compared to the vigorous primary fermentation stage. The yeast are slowing down, or dying off, as they succumb to the alcohol or lack of nutritive resources. 

Oxygen was essential for yeast propagation during the primary fermentation. However, now that the yeast cells have converted all the sugar, they no longer produce the carbon dioxide blanket to prevent oxidation of the newly made alcohol. Unfortunately, at this marginal potency of alcohol (generally about 10 to 15% for wine) the wine could spoil as the alcohol turns to acetic acid (vinegar).  I will have more on the science (and microbiology – my favourite topic!) of this process in future post.

In some instances, the fermentation finale as it occurs in the air-locked vessel as described in the last winemaking post is referred to as a secondary fermentation.  The purpose of the air-lock is to allow carbon dioxide to escape and to prevent the entry of outside air which is rich in oxygen.

The wine is siphoned off the sludge, known as ‘lees’, that settles to the bottom of the fermentation vessel.  Called 'racking'.  If at all possible, it is best practice to top up your vessel to minimize the level of airspace or ('headspace').  Using a similar wine to the kind you are making ensures that you will not dilute your creation.


The wine generally sits for at least a month at a cooler temperature to allow the vast majority of fine particulate matter to settle out. However, even after this length of time, the wine may still appear cloudy. Additional steps are taken to polish the wine to clarity with organic or inorganic agents that accelerate precipitation.  This process is known as 'fining' and will be the subject of the next winemaking post.

Ciao Winebar and Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Rasteau Chapoutier 2007

"Ciao!" It is a versatile Italian salutation, meaning either "hi" or "bye", depending on the context.  But there is no confusion of meaning when you are referring to Yorkville's latest nightlife restaurant addition.  At Ciao Winebar (133 Yorkville Ave, Toronto) the language is unmistakably speaking of wine and great food.  This gem from Liberty Entertainment Group has friendly, unpretentious service and a chic 'new world meets old world' decor (with large amphorae vessels hanging from the ceiling).

The menu is affordable, rustic Italian, and delicious.  The large portions entice you to share with your friends, family, or date.  Try the grilled whole calamari ($13), perfectly cooked, tender in your mouth and never rubbery, was served with a generous portion of salad greens and spritz of lemon to help cleanse the palate.  The cappellini 'Puttanesca' (with tomato, capers, anchiovies, and olives; $12) was as wholesome as the pizza 'Diavola' (with spicy Calabrese salami, mozzarella and roasted red peppers; $14).  The ingredients were very fresh, the crust was thin, slightly crisp, and tasted like the wood-fired Neopolitan pizzas back in Italy. 

The wine list can be a bit daunting for someone that is new to ordering bottles in restaurants.  There are over 200 bottles to choose, with representatives from the big three (Spain, Italy, and France, and grouped by region) as well as Canada, USA, Australia, and New Zealand.  About half of them have a 'premium' level of exclusivity, with their prices commanding in excess of $100.  However, there still are relative bargains to be had. 

The Côtes du Rhône-Villages from M. Chaptoutier ('Rasteau') 2007 ($45) is a great southern French wine with Grenache leading the blend.  Deep ruby in colour, this wine has a distinct, soft white pepper on the nose and palate with fine tannins that tingle the lips.  The pasta and pizza help to bring out the dark fruit character.  Even though the wine is a heavyweight in the alcohol department, (14% by vol), one really does not taste the burning 'heat' because the wine is beautifully balanced. 

The dessert menu beckons you to cap off a great meal (only this time, you may not even want to share!).  With delights ($6-8) like the giant bacio bombe (a scaled-up sized version of the Italian-inspired hazelnut filled chocolates with the romantic messages enclosed in the wrapping) and mini-sized Sicilian cannoli (with mascarpone cheese and candied orange filling) it is hard to say no. 

There are so many options to choose from on the food and wine menus, you can add variety to your gastronomic experience.  Feel free to ask the opinions of your server, as a nicely paried wine is a must for these meals, both to digest...and for pure pleasure, of course.

The bacio bombe (above, was exploding with chocolatey richness)