Tourism at home, part II: Niagara-on-the-Lake historical district

After lunch at Niagara College, a walk along Queen street in the historic district is wonderful to help digest.  There are countless articles on the history of the area but I'll hightlight some of the key sights and give you a more personal account.

In the winter time (after November 1st) you can find free parking just about everywhere.  In the summer, free parking is difficult to spot, so try the streets around the residential neighbourhood to the south of Queen st.  Otherwise, parking along Queen st. or on the north side streets comes at a relatively low cost.

It's nice to start your stroll at the west end of Queen, nearby the Niagara-on-the-Lake Golf Club, and heading eastward towards the obelisk (below).
 

Stop in at Victoria Gallery and Teas (108 Queen st.) for a specialty tea, or take some home, either in bags or as looseleaf.  There are some very interesting, uniquely Canadian infusions such as icewine and maple syrup.  Coffee lovers are not left out in the cold either as there are plenty of classics and unique roasts to enjoy.

For the sweet tooth, Maple Leaf Fudge (114 Queen st.) offers a suite of exceptional bricks of creamy fudge and chocolate confections.  There are bulk candies for sale, maple syrup, and a collections of Ty-branded stuffed animal figures for all you collectors out there. 

Continuing down the street are more shops featuring clothing and kitchenwares.  Unfortunately, very few of these stores withstand the test of the economy and are replaced on an almost annual basis.  Some resist the revolving door because they are so unique, and their contents really draw the visitors.  Of note is the clothing, gift and jewlery store, Irish Design (75 Queen st.), which also has a nice patio and tea room.  At Just Christmas (34 Queen st.), the spirit of the season lasts all year and is chock full of nice ornaments for decorating.  The staff will paint your name on glass Christmas balls for a personal touch to your tree.  Greaves Jams and Marmalades Ltd. (55 Queen st.) have pretty much any flavour of delicious jam or jelly, along with chutney, salsa, honey and gourmet sauce you like for your kitchen pantry.  Your nose, and temptation, may get the better of you if you visit the Niagara Home Bakery (66 Queen st.), be sure to save some of those yummy baked goods and pies for your friends too.  Have a laugh at the quirky, cow related puns on clothing and other items at Cows (44 Queen st.).  Other stores that have been around for more than just a few seasons include some recognizable franchises including Crabtree & Evelyn, Ten-thousand Villages, the LCBO, and Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory.  

Storefronts on the north side of Queen st.  A new wine and tapas restaurant,

Cork's (left), Crabtree and Evelyn (second from left), and the Niagara Apothecary (right)

There are plenty of places to eat.  If I could just mention a few where I have had great experiences, or are curiously worth visiting, they would be the expensive but excellent Escabeche restaurant (at the Prince of Wales Hotel [right], 6 Picton, st.).  Their wine list includes plenty of fantastic Canadian examples that you may not be familiar with, because they aren't found in the LCBO.  The sommelier has been there for many years.  He is very friendly, knowledgeable, and never scoffs at you if all you want to order is a simple glass to try, or perhaps no wine at all.  The more reasonably priced yet very tasty Bistro Six-One (61 Queen st.) has a relaxed atmosphere and is warmly decorated -- a great place for brunch.  Unfortunately, some of the others have been hit-or-miss on the quality of their food (The Shaw Cafe, although very pretty both inside and out, is too busy, too overpriced, and has not consitently delivered on quality -- and I've given them three chances).

Other than stores and restaurants, be sure to visit the Niagara Apothecary (free; northwest corner of Queen and King; open during the spring and summer only) for a look into our pharmaceutical past.  Tricia Romance's The Romance Collection Gallery (177 King st) is a beautiful house with great gardens and wonderful artwork. 

Photo opportunites can be had along the lakefront at the foot of King street.  Visit the gazebo (right), and the beach walkway of the Queen's Royal Park all the way back to your startpoint near the golfcourse.  While you stroll, take in the sights of the beautiful boats afloat in lake Ontario, the old Fort Niagara (below; across the river is Youngstown, New York, in the United States), a major fort during the war of 1812, and on a clear day, if you look northwest, you can see the CN tower back in Toronto.

After a long day of exploring, and enjoying some of Ontario's fantastic wine and culinary delights.  It would be a great treat to cap off the evening and stay the night.  You can somewhat blow the budget, splurge, but be served like royalty, at the Prince of Wales Hotel (with breakfast packages that average $250 per night, for a traditional King size bed, prices fluctuate due to seasonality).  However, there is a whole other industry that is truly booming.  The Bed & Breakfast option (with well over 300 unique establishments) is affordable, hospitable and a great way to experience Niagara's history first hand. 

More to come...

Vintourism Introduction

When travelling for business or leisure, especially to a country other than your own, often times you would like to experience what the locals do, immerse yourself in culture and discover hidden gems off the beaten path. I soon found out that through wine and food, you learn plenty about local culture and lifestyle.

I’ve travelled to a decent amount of key wine countries around the world for a relatively short span of time. Italy, Chile, Argentina, Australia, and of course, my local area situated in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. As you can see, I still have a lot more places to go. I generally stay for a week or more, taking in the sights through wine and culinary delights. Sometimes through coach tours, staying on a farm in a villa, and even by bicycling. I leave with many fond memories and when I go back again, it will feel more like I’m visting one of my homes away from home.

I therefore named this section ‘Vintourism’ – Visiting a place where one experiences the local culture through its wine and culinary arts. Here, I will write about these exciting journeys, introduce some of the fantastic friends I’ve made along the way, and reminisce on the great food and drink that tied everything together.

Visit to Niagara College Restaurant and Teaching Winery

A long journey first starts at home and this marks the first entry into my Vintourism column:

If you are from Toronto, as I am, and don’t want to travel too far to taste some great wine and food, you are in luck. Niagara-on-the-Lake is just a short 90-minute drive from Hogtown, down the QEW. At the gateway of this quaint winemaking, and historical town is the Niagara College Glendale Campus. This is the home of their culinary arts and winemaking & viticulture program. December is a great time to go to Niagara as things are relatively more quiet compared to the bustling summer season.

I had never been to the College but had to try something new. So after the long ride, I arrived at the restaurant for lunch. Culinary and hospitality management students run the establishment, from decoration, assembling the menu, creating the dishes, and serving the tables. In addition, the wine list is comprised of the top examples from the winemaking program.

Strangely enough, I entered an empty restaurant and thought they were closed. I soon learned that this particular saturday lunchtime was dead for business. I was the second table of the day to be seated – and also the last table for the lunch service. Luckily for me, I had an all-you-can-eat buffet spread of gourmet food! No lineups, great service (of course) and no rushing to finish.

To just breeze over the top of the list of items, there was a mixed greens start to the meal, followed by the charcuterie assortment (the prosciutto and bresaola was delicious) and artisinal cheeses. The carvery station featured moist turkey and ham with a hearty gravy and stuffing. Usually I expect these to be too salty, but the dressings of stuffing and gravy were balanced very well. And then there was the roundabout dessert table that encircled the Christmas tree and decorations at the centre of the room. If you have anything remotely resembling a sweet tooth, you’ll find something tasty. I liked the rice pudding best as it had a balance of sweet and spice.

Of course, I can’t forget the wine list. There’s a small assortment but a good selection. The wine is exclusively Canadian with most of the offerings from the Niagara-on-the-lake and Vineland-Beamsville bench area, which is near St. Catherines. The ‘house list’ is comprised of a dozen wines. Most range in price from $28-42, while the finest examples of the College on the list are the Dean’s List Chardonnay ($59) and Dean’s List Pinot Noir ($72). The nice part about winery restaurants is that there is no ‘middle-man’. You buy direct from the winemaker and therefore pay less for the bottle of wine. However, the wine was still marked up a bit compared to the prices in the store (and more than just a simple corkage fee mark-up).

Being a fan of peppery reds, I enjoyed a glass of the Cabernet Franc 2006. Medium-bodied, white pepper and bell pepper on the nose, a firm dry taste of cinnamon spice, earth and cocoa. The finish was enjoyable. Try breathing out slowly after ingesting the wine and take note of what you taste. I sensed dried fruits and plum. It’s a nice all-rounder that stood up to all the dishes I tried at the buffet. However, it’s probably not the wine to pick for desserts as the sweetness of the treats overpowered the wine. So move on to a sweeter dessert wine instead.

Overall, the lunch was a great prelude to the Christmas season. The price of the meal, $30 plus $8 for a glass of wine (excluding tax and gratuity) is slightly on the high side, but will be well worth it if you have time to enjoy the atmosphere and plenty of great tasting food.

The Teaching Winery store was about a two minute walk from the restaurant, in a separate building. Practically brand new, it had a ‘Royal grand opening visit’ by Prince Charles in November, 2009. The place was very pretty indeed. The tasting bar was at the centre, and all around the circular room were windows that showcased the vineyards in their post-harvest slumber – peaceful beauty.

Some of the white wines of note were the Gewürtztraminer 2007 (noticeable lychee and tropical fruit; the perceived sweetness would be a nice pair for mildly spicy dishes), the Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, 2006 (very bold butter and vanilla; a heavyweight wine suitable for oily fish such as salmon and definitely pairs well with chicken), the Dean’s List Chardonnay (for comparison, it is more delicate in nature than the barrel fermented and one would argue it is more balanced), and the very zesty, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc (think herb garden and fresh cut grass; a real palate cleanser for the start of a meal).

The one red wine I did try was the Baco Noir, purely for interest sake. This hybrid grape, grown in France and now a main hybrid variety in Ontario, is known for being very dark and inky purple. It has very high acidity for red wines and this example from the College was no exception. It could have been the most acidic I’ve tried. It was one I didn’t really like too much (If I had to criticise). Definitely something to have with food as it is not too palatable on its own as a sipper.

The service was very friendly and the staff (also partly run by the students of the College) were knowledgeable, but don’t expect to be served by sommeliers as they are still learning. I know I’ll still be returning the next time I’m in town.

Featured soon, will be the next leg of the trip, to the Historic District. Stay tuned!